Lueder recently participated in the Sustainable Leadership Programme at the University of Cambridge, which prompted her to invite clients to send in their old suits to be repurposed. To create a space for people to explore and share her work, Lueder engages external collaborators, each one diligently acknowledged on the presentation of new collections.Ĭo-creation also underpins her response to sustainability. The idea was that the communal gathering is really necessary to relieve people and make them feel human, and you can go crazy as well,’ she says. She references an annual festival in Hamburg, which has roots in mediaeval folklore.
In her shows and presentations, Lueder uses such visual motifs to prompt individuals to incorporate her garments in their wardrobes and lives, hoping to form a feeling of community through her work. We are all spiralling and if people stand in the spiral shape, they would feel close to one another rather than isolated.’ New menswear: Lueder A/W 2022 ‘It’s a universal garment that everyone likes to wear, and it has this protection element of the hood as well. This feeling of utilitarian luxury is epitomised by her ‘Civilian Hoodie’, which comes complete with a degradé spiral on its front – a motif she sees as symbolic of her label. I am really guided by construction,’ she says in sartorial terms, this has resulted in explorations of archetypal garments which upend expectations, while incorporating traditional techniques from a team of tailors in Birmingham.
The Hamburg native moved to London to pursue a master’s in menswear at the Royal College of Art, honing a practice that encompasses performance art, research into sustainability, and ultimately, the creation of garments that allow the wearer to navigate both their interior selves and external realities at eponymous label Lueder. ‘I like to make fashion that is like a deep conversation then I simplify the garment so it speaks for itself, because not everyone has the time to listen to me,’ she says from her studio in London’s Shoreditch, in an interview that’s part of a portfolio of emerging menswear designers in Wallpaper’s September 2022 Style Issue. Marie Lueder is a designer with an agenda.
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